Styles of Bellows

I started off my bellows journey with 50 era modified Pentax version.  This was about at basic as it gets; two knobs to adjust the camera and lens position and a lock knob.  Conversion to Canon EOS was simple as all I needed to get was a t-mount which is commonly used in astro photography.  Mounted with a 100mm Asahi lens, I was able to capture reasonably good images and gain respectable magnification, but the overall build quality of this system was just not very good.  With the weight of a Canon 20d and later a 5d, the system was just not stable enough for my liking.  After several months of looking, I settled on a bellow system made by Nikon – Model pb-4.  I know that some Nikon or Canon die hard is going to flame me for doing this, but I believe you should use whatever gear you need to get your images.  I like Canon’s gear better, but Nikon really hit a home run with this system. 



 
This system is well built. Strong rails and locks, geared adjustment, and the ability to tilt and Shift the lens.  This was a big plus for me since this will allow you precise control over the focal plane.  It did, however, require me to make a few more modifications to get it working.  the first thing you need to do is find the right lens adapter.  In my case, I was looking for an EOS to Nikon F mount.  It really doesn’t matter what you are shooting, just make sure you can locate the correct adapter before buying the bellows.  The second modification was to mount a lens.  I didn’t have any F mount lenses, so I picked up a $5 Nikon body cap and drilled a hole just big enough for a nice Schneider lens that I had.  this works pretty well and allows me to switch out the lens easily.  For slide duplication, the 55mm micro is the recommended lens and is still available from time to time in collector shops and on Ebay.  

Using the Bellows

Once you have all adapters finished, you should be able to start shooting.  I don’t mess with any double cable releases that are available.  These will stop down the lens at the same time you fire off a shot.  I find my self moving slowly when I shoot macro work, so speed is not as important.  I compose and focus wide open, stop down the lens as needed for depth of field, then take my picture.  Your camera is missing a lot of info that it normally would get from the lens, but this is all manual baby. Just ignore your meter and fire off a couple test shots and review the histogram.  If you are shooting film, use a handheld light meter or use your camera’s meter to get close.  Remember to bracket if you use the camera’s meter since I find it off as much as tow stops at times. Conclusion So far, this is the best bellow that I’ve tried.  I’m sure you could jump into the medium format space and find a better system, but for 35mm and APS size sensors, this is just fine.  Pick up a cheap one and give it a try.  You will be shocked at all the details you’re missing with your tubes.  But don’t toss the tubes, stick them in your back packing gear.  While the bellows system is flexible, it’s not light or particularly packable.  Great unit for in the studio, near the car, or on the patio, but you wont want to lug it very far.